Compact & manageable
At roughly 15 miles by 4 miles, you can see a lot in a short stay: beaches, castles, gardens and viewpoints are all within easy reach of Rothesay.
35 minutes from the Scottish mainland
Discover the Isle of Bute
A small, easily explored island in the Firth of Clyde – with sandy bays, gentle hills, grand Victorian architecture and a rich story from medieval castles to wartime secrets.
⛴ Direct train + ferry from Glasgow
🏖 Beaches, walks & wildlife
🏰 Castles & neo-Gothic mansions
Why visit
A tiny island with a big story
Bute sits between the Cowal Peninsula and Arran. Think sandy west-coast bays, fertile farmland, leafy lanes and a waterfront town that still shows off its Victorian resort past.
A perfect “first Scottish island”: quick to reach, easy to navigate,
with plenty to do even on a short trip.
In the 19th and early 20th centuries, Bute was the classic “doon the watter” escape for Glaswegians, arriving by paddle steamer to the busy resort of Rothesay. Before that, farming estates and the powerful Marquesses of Bute shaped the landscape – most spectacularly at Mount Stuart, a fantasy neo-Gothic mansion that pioneered electric lighting and indoor plumbing.
During the Second World War, the island’s sheltered lochs hosted secret training for midget submarines, commandos and Allied troops. Today, the crowds are smaller but the appeal is the same: sea air, easy walks, wildlife, heritage sites and a welcoming small-town feel.
🚶♀️ Easy day walks & longer trails
🏛 Historic houses & medieval castles
🦭 Seal & bird watching
🚲 Quiet roads & coastal views
Effortless access
Train and ferry connections mean you can step on a train in Glasgow and off a ferry in Rothesay without needing a car.
Real island life
Community projects, a revived waterfront and a focus on nature make Bute feel lived-in and authentic, not a theme park.
Getting here
How to reach the Isle of Bute
Bute is one of Scotland’s easiest islands to reach, especially from Glasgow and the Central Belt. Trains and ferries connect smoothly, and there’s a second short ferry at the north end.
Most visitors arrive via Wemyss Bay — a classic station and pier combo that’s a mini
“doon the watter” experience in itself.
From Glasgow: train + ferry
Without a car
⏱ Around 90 minutes total
1. Train to Wemyss Bay
- Regular trains from Glasgow Central, journey time about 50–55 minutes.
- Wemyss Bay station is famous for its sweeping glass-roofed concourse leading straight to the ferry.
2. Ferry to Rothesay (Bute)
- CalMac car and passenger ferry, around 35 minutes crossing time.
- Sailings typically every 45–60 minutes (season and day dependent).
- Train and ferry timetables are planned to connect — just walk from train to ferry.
Tip: Sit on deck for views across the Firth of Clyde, with glimpses of Arran and the Cowal hills as you
approach Rothesay Bay.
Driving & alternative routes
With a car or on a wider tour
By car via Wemyss Bay
- From Glasgow, follow the M8, then A8/A78 along the coast to Wemyss Bay (about 33 miles).
- Drive onto the Wemyss Bay–Rothesay ferry and roll off right into the island’s main town.
Via Cowal: Colintraive – Rhubodach
- Ideal if you’re touring Argyll or the Cowal Peninsula.
- Very short vehicle and passenger ferry, only about 5 minutes.
- Lands at Rhubodach in the quiet northern part of Bute — perfect for a peaceful start.
Summer heritage sailings
In summer, the historic paddle steamer Waverley sometimes offers excursions to Rothesay, echoing the island’s classic holiday heyday.
Where to stay
Sleep by the sea or under the stars
Bute’s days as a huge Victorian resort are past, but there’s still a solid mix of seafront hotels, cosy B&Bs, self-catering places and camping options.
Book ahead for summer weekends and bank holidays, especially if you want a room overlooking Rothesay Bay.
Hotels & guest houses
Classic seafront stays
Mostly clustered around Rothesay’s bay, from traditional Victorian hotels to smaller family-run
places. Ideal if you want to stroll from ferry to room, then out again for dinner and evening walks.
B&Bs & inns
Village charm
Friendly B&Bs pop up in Rothesay, Port Bannatyne and rural spots. Expect personal tips,
hearty breakfasts and an easy base for buses and walks.
Self-catering
Cottages, apartments & lodges
Town-centre flats, country cottages, loch-side lodges and beach-adjacent rentals give you space
to spread out and cook. Perfect for families and walkers staying a few days.
Camping & caravans
Under big island skies
Campsites and caravan parks offer sea views and easy access to the coast. Great for budget trips
or as part of a longer island-hopping adventure.
Top experiences
What to see and do on Bute
From castle walls and ornate Victorian toilets to seal-spotting beaches and woodland trails, there’s plenty to fill a day or a long weekend.
Mix an hour or two in Rothesay with a beach, a coastal drive or a section of the West Island Way.
Rothesay & waterfront
Grand houses & chapels
Beaches & walks
Wildlife & forest
Explore Rothesay’s waterfront & castle
Start in Rothesay with its palm-lined promenade, harbour and views across the bay. Pop into the compact Bute Museum, then circle the unusual water-filled moat and stone walls of medieval Rothesay Castle.
Visit Mount Stuart House & gardens
A short drive or bus ride from Rothesay brings you to Mount Stuart: a dramatic neo-Gothic mansion built by the 3rd Marquess of Bute. Expect lavish interiors, a marble chapel, woodland trails and access to the shoreline.
Walk part of the West Island Way
Scotland’s first waymarked island long-distance route (45–48 km) crosses wild moorland, farmland and shore. Pick a stage between Kilchattan Bay, Rothesay and Port Bannatyne for a manageable day walk.
Beach hop: Ettrick & Scalpsie Bays
Ettrick Bay offers a long family-friendly sweep of sand, shallow water and a classic tearoom. Scalpsie Bay, with its red sand, looks across to Arran and has a viewpoint for spotting grey seals.
Island story
From estates to steamers to secret wartime training
Bute’s calm appearance hides a lively past: landowning dynasties, royal titles, mass tourism, evacuees and experimental submarines all play a part.
You don’t need to remember dates — just let the castle walls, mansions and museums tell the story.
While you’re here, you’ll constantly bump into history: from early Christian sites like St Blane’s Church in the south, to medieval royal connections at Rothesay Castle, and the legacy of Victorian wealth at Mount Stuart and the waterfront villas.
During World War II, the island’s quiet bays and lochs became training grounds for Allied forces, including midget submarines used against the German battleship Tirpitz. Local projects and museum displays still explore these stories today.
18th–19th centuries: estates & “improvement”
The Crichton-Stuart family (Marquesses of Bute) reshape farming with new drainage, crop rotations
and enclosed fields. Mount Stuart is rebuilt as a showcase of power, style and modern technology.
Victorian–Edwardian boom: “doon the watter”
Paddle steamers from Glasgow turn Rothesay into a major seaside resort. Grand villas,
a smart promenade, hotels and the 1924 Winter Gardens spring up to entertain thousands of holidaymakers.
World War II: evacuees & secret training
Child evacuees arrive by the boatload, while nearby lochs host training for X-craft midget submarines
and commando landing exercises. Polish, Canadian and Scottish units all pass through.
Post-war heyday & decline
In the 1950s–70s, Rothesay is still packed each summer. Then foreign package holidays, cars and
changing tastes shrink visitor numbers. Hotels close or convert, and the town’s population falls.
21st-century regeneration
The Winter Gardens become the Discovery Centre, the West Island Way opens, and projects like Bute
Community Forest focus on recreation, education and nature. Tourism shifts towards walking, wildlife
and heritage, supported by strong community involvement.
Practical guide
Make the most of your visit
A few simple tips will help you enjoy Bute like a local, whether you’re here for a day, a long weekend or a week of slow exploration.
Layers, waterproofs and curiosity are more important than strict plans — islands have their own rhythm.
Getting around
Local buses connect Rothesay with Kilchattan Bay, Ettrick Bay, Port Bannatyne and Rhubodach. Bring a bike or hire one if you can — the roads are generally quiet and scenic.
Best time to visit
Late spring to early autumn offers the best chance of settled weather, long evenings and open attractions. Winter is quieter and more limited in services, but can be atmospheric with dramatic skies.
Food & drink
Most cafés, pubs and restaurants cluster in Rothesay and Port Bannatyne, with tearooms at popular beaches. Look out for local seafood, home baking and community-run spots.
What to pack
Even in summer, bring waterproofs, a warm layer, comfortable walking shoes and a daypack. Add swimwear and a towel if you fancy a dip, plus binoculars for seals, ospreys and seabirds.